One in a million electrical faults

Snowy1 replied on 09/07/2016 21:46

Posted on 09/07/2016 21:46

At some time, we must all of heard about a vehicle electrical fault that appears to be a "One in a million fault" the sort of fault which garages/dealers are unable to find and fully cure. In many cases they only manage to temporary cure and the fault returns. During my time I have undertaken a few such faults and thus far managed to fully diagnose them, maybe more luck than judgement to say the least. Some members who are very electrically minded may find my recent such event quite interesting especially when I explain the cause of the fault.

A motorcyclist had a charging problem with his motorcycle, the alternator (3 phase, delta windings, permanent magnet type) was undercharging but this was not a straightforward fault.

The motorcycle had been taken to several dealers for rectification of the fault, a new alternator stator, regulator/rectifier unit and motorcycle wiring harness had been fitted by these dealers and the owner was told that the fault was cured upon collecting the motorcycle on each occasion, but each time a few days later the battery would run down yet again.

The owner was recomended to bring the motorcycle to myself for diagnoses of the fault. Under the circumstances I felt sorry for the owner and took the job on with no charge, i.e. parts only if used. Symptoms of the fault were as follows; At tickover, the alternator was balancing the electrical loadings with the headlight on and still showing a 3 amp charge. When the engine speed was increased the charging rate decreased (opposite to what should normally happen) and when the engine reaches 3000 RPM the alternators output totally terminates even though there is still a heavy electrical demand at this time.

I must admit, this one had me pulling my hair out but I applied one of my old time theories; "If there is a fault, there must be a cause, as there is a cause, it must be curable" in other words, in my book, there is no such thing as cannot be done or rectified.

After a long detailed investigation I found that the motorcycles electronic ignition unit (often reffered to as a CDI unit) was at fault. One could say; what has the motorcycles' electronic ignition unit got to do with the alternators output and regulation?

Well this is what was happening; The motorcycles' electronic ignition unit was functioning correctly as in allowing the engine to run and function correctly even electronically advancing and retarding the ignition between; 10° BTDC and 40° BTDC at 3000 RPM, but something had gone wrong electronically inside said unit and it was emitting electrical pulses into the motorcycles wiring harness which was effecting the alternators' electronically controlled regulator/rectifier unit causing it to totally shut down when the motorcycles engine was fully advanced at 3000 RMP.

An interesting one to say the least

Colin 

redface replied on 14/07/2016 21:15

Posted on 14/07/2016 21:15

Ah Snowy - if only I had known of you when my wife's car was misfiring and not even Nissan, the manufacturer, could say which pot it was. The misfire was sporadic but their computer could not read the fault codes.

Snowy1 replied on 14/07/2016 22:28

Posted on 14/07/2016 22:28

Ah Snowy - if only I had known of you when my wife's car was misfiring and not even Nissan, the manufacturer, could say which pot it was. The misfire was sporadic but their computer could not read the fault codes.

If it was me, I would of try'ed using an Oscilloscope, sure it would of shown up, I am by no means superman, it's just I will not give up until I find the fault. The answer to a vehicle electrical fault is always within the vehicle it's self.

Snowy1 replied on 14/07/2016 22:47

Posted on 14/07/2016 22:47

Many moons ago when i was in the road transport section at work i had a lighting fault on an artic tractor unit.All was ok until we tried the brake lights and then it was like strobe lighting all over the vehicle.After a coupe of hours the fault was traced to a brake light bulb.The bulb was a stop/tail bulb and the stop element had broken and fallen across the side light element Sad joining both circuits together which causes all sorts of problems.

v9

Those symtons were common when a customer put a single filament 21w bulb in stop/tail socket .

Yes Martin, I agree that a bubble or even a single contact 12v/21w bulb will fit into a 21/5w bulb holder even though the 21/5w pins are offset, all one has to do is push said 12/21 slightly deeper into the holder and it will fit as you say.

Colin

EmilysDad replied on 14/07/2016 23:56

Posted on 14/07/2016 23:56

 ....Those symtons were common when a customer put a single filament 21w bulb in stop/tail socket .

My car does actually use a 21w single filament bulb as a stop/tail Wink

Snowy1 replied on 15/07/2016 00:33

Posted on 15/07/2016 00:33

 ....Those symtons were common when a customer put a single filament 21w bulb in stop/tail socket .

My car does actually use a 21w single filament bulb as a stop/tail Wink

Yes some cars do, the system is known as; Common feed wire method, shared control wire method or shared filament lighting Method. Said 12v/21w bulb is feed by a single wire, when the sidelights are switched on the towcars ECU feeds a voltage of around 5v to the bulb. This allows the bulb to partially light up giving equivelant lux of a 12v/5w bulb, therefor acting as a sidelight. When the stop lights are applied full 12v is feed to said bulb and the lux is of corse equivelant to standard 12v/21w bulb. This system catches out unskilled towbar fitters who try to wire towbar electrics without using a correct module, I.e. They cannot electrically separate the two circuits back into two to correctly wire the towbar up.

Colin

Snowy1 replied on 15/07/2016 00:49

Posted on 15/07/2016 00:49

Sorry, PS again,

Some cars have this method between the vehicles' sidelights and rear fog lights. 

Snowy1 replied on 18/07/2016 20:58

Posted on 18/07/2016 20:58

 This system catches out unskilled towbar fitters who try to wire towbar electrics without using a correct module, i.e. They cannot electrically separate the two circuits back into two to correctly wire the towbar up.

The above is true, but there is actually a way of fiddling this by connecting the modules' stoplight signal wire directly to the towcars' high-line LED stoplight and the modules' L + R sidelight signal wires to the towcars licence plate lamps. In my opinion, I would never of done this to a customers car as in my eyes, it would be a Bodgit & Scarper job that would be OK for a Local Scotch-Lock Mob. One should always obtain the correct module for the towcar every time!

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