E&P Hydraulic Levelling

Stephen

It may have been a long post, but it was very helpful - thank you.

Just to clarify - when you fit the wheel locks, do you lift all 4 wheels or just the nearside? 

I know what you mean about the wheels settling on the suspension.  I have a particular problem with the Knaus in that it has 5 spoke wheels and as a consequence, the Alko lozenges are large and a tight fit between the spokes.  Not only is correct alignment critical (much more so than on our previous Bailey) when fitting them, but when it comes to removing them - because the wheels have moved very slightly, the bolts are always tight - so much so that I am concerned about damaging the threads.  I suppose I ought to re-inflate the Lock 'n Level that I use at the moment before attempting to remove the locks, but I never do.  

Do you, therefore, go through the process of raising the nearside again when you come to remove the locks - so as to take the pressure off the lock bolts?

It was interesting to note that you can manually adjust the level after it has done its own job.  I also like to have our van very slightly nose down and nearside raised very slightly to aid shower draining.

Thank you again, for your informative post - just what I was looking for

My system is over five years old now, so I consider it reliable. No signs of leaks. The hydraulics are well engineered.
Mine is on a single axle, so I visually line up the alko wheel lock and fit that on the floor. Then push the button.

The system does allow you to reset your own level, so it you want it to learn slightly, then you can preset it to do that every time it’s deployed. I don’t find then need to do this as the shower in my caravan drains well when the caravan is set to level. 
At home, I raise it on the manual option and set it high with wheels off the ground ( takes the strain off the suspension and tyres ) and a slight fall to the front to aid draining rain from the roof and reduce black streaks from the sides and back.

There are other products besides E&P

My levelling systems came from Gliderite and I have had it for 6 years without any problems and would not be without it now. It really does simplify setting up and makes pitching anywhere so easy.

peedee

The Rams, fitted to the axle cross member, are well inboard from the wheels so using the left hand side ram only will get the wheel clear of the ground quicker. I am happy to release the handbrake once it is lifted (900kg on the ram) so spinning the wheels  to fit the locks is easy.

My Alko locks are also a snug fit in the wheels and as I mentioned because of the trailing arms there is always a forward movement as the locked wheels hit the ground, I am careful to make sure the wheel lock bolts are tight (making the assembly more robust and protecting the bolt) at this point. At the end of the stay I usually take the locks off while the caravan is still level and I have never had difficulty getting them off, Luckily my lozenges are tapered so as soon as the bolts are loose they are free from the wheel. This may not be the same for all caravans/wheel shape of course. I share your concern about how delicate the threads are on the Alko locks I wouldn't hesitate to lift the wheel if I found the bolt was tight or not turning freely. 

At the risk of creating another long post there are another couple of points of interest:

When using the manual mode the rams stop moving when the caravan is level you can carry on lifting afterwards but it is useful.

There is no way of lowering incrementally! it's all down or nothing, lowering is always one ram at a time this makes the caravan rock from side to side as it goes down so be careful if you are close to any buildings/ fences, I have a 3" gap to a shed at home and this can be a nerve racking moment, if things are going wrong the power button (on the remote) stops things straight away.

I always add a little extra lift (to both sides) manually even when the auto setting has finished I do this to take more weight off of the suspension, I find this makes the van even more stable. It also gives more height for drainage into the wastemaster

If I was to criticise the system it would be that I wish it was simpler. I would be happy with 4 buttons Up & Down Left & Right plus the levelling arrows and green light.  For example, it will not allow some operations until you have proved that your corner steadies are not down you have to do this my moving the jockey wheel until it sees a change in level.

I will mention the remote control option once again it means you can be where the action is (spirit level, blocks under rams, jockey wheel, power button).

As "Freedom a Whitebox" mentioned you can re-calibrate the level so that the auto mode puts it to the level you want for your shower etc. I haven't bothered because as I mentioned I always add to the lift manually anyway.

I have often wondered what the outcome would be to do this, my thought was to lift the van and remove the wheels for extra security when at home but perhaps over winter.

Have you done this at all? What length of time have you had the van lifted for?

However, a recent knee injury has meant that it is extremely painful to kneel down and deploy the L 'n L and fit the wheel locks.

richardandros,  Apologies for being stupid but I don't understand - how will this system make fitting the wheel locks any easier?

Hi Mickey

On a single axle van it is not much different if you can align the pockets of the alloy wheels to allow easy fitting of the Alko type locks.. However with a twin axle there is a big advantage as the van can be listed on the lock side of van and once stable with the jockey wheel down, the the handbrake can be released to allow the raised wheels to spin independently to allow much easier alignment of the Alko locks.

If your back still bends but not your knees, this can be done from a standing position.

I have not used the L+L system, but I assume you would need to kneel down to place the system in the correct position.

Just a thought the second lock or even both locks for the twin axle could be the nemesis which requires no alignment. I use one on the offside wheel to give a visible deterrent especially when an awning is fitted.

I have had my motorhome on the jacks for the past two months with no ill effects. One of the marketing points is that when on the jacks it makes it harder to steal. When I took mine in for a check/servicing a couple of years ago I was advise to spary them now and again with silcon grease when extend. I can lift mine clear of the ground at the front but the back is a bit heavier and although I can reduce the weight on the wheels, I wouldn't like to risk too high a lift.

I recently had the tyres changed and I had to use my levelling jacks to lift the motorhome up sufficiently to allow the garage to get their jacks under the axle!

peedee

Bluemalaga is correct in what he says. I ripped a ligament in my knee about 4 months ago and although I can now walk almost normally, it is still - even after this time, very painful to kneel down.  I think it's something I'm going to have to live with - along with a few other creaking joints!

To deploy the L 'n L, there's no other way to do it other than by kneeling down and bringing the van back with the motor mover to ensure it is both correctly positioned on the air bag and that the wheel lock lines up.  Fit one wheel lock, inflate half the bag to lift the front wheel and fit that lock - then level the van.  It means I'm on my knees for quite a few minutes.

Using the E&P, I will be able to lift the nearside of the van, sit on the caravan step, spin the wheels and fit both locks - same when removing them. Well, that's my thinking, anyway.

A different security device might be a cheaper option