North Coast 500

This story happened on: 02/09/2017

Ok so you have read the article, and maybe seen the media hype. It is true that it is really something else. We have done it. But I think there should be more prominence to the words of warning and caution. From the beginning I will say as a caravaner, I have driven on virtually all the North Coast 500 roads, but not towed on them. (There are just a  couple in the middle of Inverness I seemed to have missed)

True there is warning not to tow, or use a large motorhome over the pass to Applecross. But then not many people would. However the leaflet labeled the Official Map of the North Coast 500 has the section in the very North West showing an exclamation mark, which the legend explains as - 

‘If your motorhome is more than a standard VW T5 conversion (ie - about16 - 18 feet in length) please take the alternative routes available. If you cannot accurately reverse your vehicle several hundred yards on a narrow single track - you cannot safely drive this road.’ (A quick look at the map will show that there isn’t an alternative route.)

This is for the section Kinlochbervie to Durness.  

If you use a seven seater sized SUV pulling a typical twin axle, I would suggest - forget towing all the way round.  Just note that the club article, and most online references show a modest motorhome. Not with out reason.

Also, in your research, think before buying official material. The £13 book tells you about places on the way, which can be interesting, but there is not a lot about the route itself. I didn’t think it was worth the money. Then there is a small laminated map for a fiver. Laminated for people in a vehicle (?) The legend tells you which roads have passing places, which are over 4m wide, and which are under etc. Then covers them with a thick purple route marker making it impossible to tell which is what width. The freebie one is far better, and well worth the cost. 

We have been going to that area for many years, and have been to all the Highland club sites. We prepare beforehand, and book the sites. We travel light, a small budget fixed bed tourer, no longer with kids or awning, and not a dog. As we come from the Midlands it take 1 day to get to somewhere like Stirling, then a second day to get to the first site where we spend a few days. We set up, then cover that area well using just a modest sized tow car. Basically we can get anywhere. We spend 3 or 4 nights on a site then move to the next. So far we have been on Altnaharra more times than any other. This year it included Kinlochewe. Using the site as a touring base we have driven on virtually all the roads of the North Coast 500, and quite a few others as well. 

Note also that general information about the area says that tourism is probably the main industry. That translates into over £5 for 2 coffees. Watch out for those garages which don’t have the price of the fuel visible for the road. Some things are expensive, some even dearer. 

Also why do places advertising as using local produce give you a drink in a non-environmentally friendly paper cup, when perfectly good items of reusable crockery is make in the UK ? Especially NTS ?

Beware of convoys of European motorhomes. Especially Dutch. But German, French and Italian as well. They will have driven a long way to see what has been billed as ‘The last wilderness of Europe.’  But then it is a UNESCO Geopark !

In your planning, check your timing. The Scottish Tourist Board have a scheme to keep numbers down during the typical touring season of June, July and August. it is know as the ‘Midge’. Yes there are repellants, hats with built in nets and multiple forms of protection. Typically they are around during evening BBQ time. Don’t compete. Go inside and batten down the hatches. If you can avoid still, calm, warm, pleasant evenings (and sunrises) on a loch side pitch, so much the better. Instead pitch where there is a wind, or rain, or it is cold outside etc and you will be happier.

Of course, you can see everything based a caravan, but it has taken us about 8 years, of going for a fortnight a year. That way we didn’t have to rush. 

Woman sitting in camping chair by Wastwater in the Lake District with her two dogs and picnic blanket

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Photo of Wast Water, Lake District by Sue Peace
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