Waltzing through central Europe

Hungary started off rather like Romania did - very flat. The southern plain features Hungary’s largest national park, Hortobágyi, famous for birdwatching, water buffalo and blue-skirted cowboys.

At Tiszafüred on the country’s second longest river, the Tisza, we stayed at the popular Dieters Camping. The river is dammed nearby, creating a beautiful lakeland area that attracts not only wildlife like storks and ospreys but offers activities like fishing, boating and cycling.

Farther north, where plain turns to upland, is Eger, one of Hungary’s most enchanting towns. With fine Baroque architecture, a castle and a minaret, it is also famed for its wine.

We stayed in the hills at Noszvaj nearby, at the charming Camping Nomad, a leafy site attached to a family-run hotel with outdoor swimming pool, bar and restaurant. We had the site to ourselves, despite the hotel being busy with cycling and birdwatching groups.

Next stop was the capital, Budapest, where we pitched at the tiny Camping Ave Natura. Facilities were not the best, but Marta, the owner, ensured everyone was welcome. Buses run into the city centre from nearby, to the foot of Castle Hill in hilly Buda. From there, it’s a short climb to the castle entrance, then you can wander through the streets to the Fisherman’s Bastion with views extending over the Danube to the impressive Hungarian parliament building and flat Pest.

The city is also famous for its spa baths. We went to the magnificent Gellert Spa, with indoor and outdoor pools which opened in 1918 featuring Art Nouveau style, mosaics, stained glass windows and sculptures.

South-west of Budapest, Lake Balaton enjoys a Mediterranean climate. At almost 80km long, this ‘Hungarian sea’ is one of Europe’s largest lakes. It has resorts all around, but we headed for the quieter and more attractive northern shore, staying at Balatonfüred’s well-equipped Camping Füred, which has its own beach and a lakeside restaurant.

From there, we dipped into Slovakia briefly, to visit its capital, Bratislava, like Budapest, on the Danube. The old town, overlooked by its renovated hilltop castle, looked great, despite heavy rain.

Bratislava is close to both Hungary and Austria, and not far into the latter is its capital, Vienna, famous for its Baroque architecture. Though the Danube doesn’t actually go through Vienna - it passes just north - the Danube Canal was built to link river and city. In summer, sand is spread along the tow paths to create beaches, with cafes, live music and flea markets. 

Our Campervan’s continuing gear problems meant we adjusted our route to avoid steep climbs and in Austria we had the perfect alternative - the Danube valley. Though steep wooded hills border the river, the road is not only level but also passes through attractive towns and villages. 

Among the best are Durnstein, overlooked by a ruined castle where Richard the Lionheart was imprisoned by Leopold V, Duke of Austria in 1192, Melk, with its magnificent monastery, and Grein, dominated by its 15th-century castle. Our riverside campsites along the way were Campingplatz Rossatz at Rossatzbach, Terrassencamping Schlögen at Schlögen, and Campingplatz Kasten, Vichtenstein, all with wonderful views.

Pictures:

Eger, one of Hungary's most enchanting towns

Indoor pool at Budapest's Gellert Spa

Bratislava's castle looks out over the Old Town

Durnstein and the hilltop castle where Richard the Lionheart was imprisoned

Terrassencamping Schlögen is beside the Danube