Euro-tour final leg, the Danube to the Channel

Beyond Austria, the River Danube led us to Passau. This handsome Bavarian city, at the confluence of the Danube and River Inn, has a compact Altstadt, with St Stephen’s Cathedral dominant, and the Rathaus by the Danube, overlooked by the Veste Oberhaus fortress.

Chiemsee was next, where we stayed at busy Panorama Camping, near Prien, before moving to Forggensee and Camping Brunnen. Both lakes proved perfect for cooling down as temperatures nudged 40 degrees C. We cycled, too, to Prien and around Forggensee, taking in ‘Mad’ King Ludwig ll’s fantasy castle, Neuschwanstein, at the foot of the Alps.

At Kelheim, we met the Danube again, joining a cruise through the lovely Donaudurchbruch to Weltenburg Abbey. It reputedly has the world’s oldest abbey brewery, and we sampled beers in the courtyard brauhaus. 

Downstream at Regensburg, Azure Camping is a 4km cycle from the centre. The only German city to survive the second world war intact, Regensburg remains much as it was in the 14th century. Attractions include the 12th-century Steinerne Brücke (currently undergoing renovations), the cathedral, the Altes Rathaus, Schloss St Emmeram and several tower houses.

Next stop was Czech capital, Prague. We intended using Camping Oase Praha at Zlatniky, but hot, sunny weather ensured a full site. Wanting freedom of movement, we never booked sites ahead and this was the only occasion in five months we were refused. Nevertheless, the busy receptionist kindly booked us a site at nearby Seberov.

In a delightful orchard, Camping Prager is run by a friendly couple who provided information on Prague and recommended a superb village restaurant, Di Carlo. We spent two days exploring Prague’s highlights, like Wenceslas Square, the Old Town, Charles Bridge, Prague Castle, the cathedral and colourful Golden Lane.

From Prague, we headed for Dresden, eastern Germany, staying at Campingplatz Mockritz, a bus ride from the centre. Once one of Germany’s most beautiful cities, Dresden was razed by two nights of bombing in 1945. Its renaissance began in the 1950s with the rebuilding of the Zwinger palace and gardens, and continues, following the Frauenkirche’s completion. 

Continuing Campervan problems prompted us to curtail our travels and after a night at Ferienpark Plotzky, near Magdeburg, we crossed into Holland, stopping at off-the-beaten-track Camping De Kunne, near De Lutte. From there we drove to Harlingen, an ancient port on Holland’s north coast, with ferries to the Frisian islands and traditional sailing barges. The town’s campsite, De Zeehoeve, is just south.

Harlingen is one end of the 30km-long Afsluitdijk, which isolated the Zuider Zee from the North Sea, creating the IJsselmeer freshwater lake. We stayed at Camping Strandbad, Edam, ideal for visiting picturesque lakeshore villages, including Medemblik, Enkhuizen, Hoorn and Volendam, linked by ferry to Marken ‘island’.

Following another night in Holland, at leafy Camping Uit en Thuis, near Bergen op Zoom, we quickly crossed Belgium, and by late afternoon, we reached Le Bien Assise, south of Calais at Guines, a wonderful site to conclude a European grand tour. A final meal in its excellent restaurant, La Ferme Gourmande, was the icing on a remarkably flavoursome cake!

Pictures: 

Passau's cathedral overlooking the River Inn

Panorama Camping, beside Chiemsee

Busy Charles Bridge in Prague

Former fishermen's houses at Marken

Final stop - lovely Le Bien Assise at Guines