Blown along by the Mistral

The problem with embarking on a trip like ours in early March is that your route is dictated to some extent by the sites that are open, which in northern France are few and far between. In a little VW Campervan like ours, we need reasonable facilities on hand, so we prefer to stay on sites rather than aires. The first couple of nights we stopped at Bresles, just east of Beauvais, and near the village of Geraudot, on the shore of Lac d’Orient, east of Troyes. The site there, Camping de l’Epine aux Moines, is a little gem and had only just opened for the season. The weather was freezing, but we had our own son et lumière with a brilliant sunset over the lake accompanied by the sound of wildfowl.

               If you’ve not been before, Troyes is worth a visit, particularly for its large number of half-timbered medieval buildings. We wandered for a couple of hours before resuming our journey south in search of warmer temperatures.

               That evening we reached Lyon, staying at Camping Indigo Lyon, close to the A6 motorway. At last there was a hint of warmth, but overnight it rained heavily and the temperature dropped back again. However, we decided to stay a second night, to explore Lyon since Gillian had never been there, and next morning we caught the bus from the site gates into the city. We arrived at Vieux-Lyon and took the funicular up to Fourvière to see the Notre-Dame Basilica and Roman theatres, and to enjoy the views over the city.

               We walked back down to Vieux-Lyon, arriving in Rue St Jean, one of the most famous streets in France for eating out. On a warmer day, the street would be packed with diners. From there we walked alongside the River Saone to the huge Place Bellecour.

               Next morning we were on the A6 heading south again, in brilliant sunshine, but accompanied by a fierce crosswind - all the way to St Cyprien. The mistral was at work! That night, at Camping Soleil de la Mediterranée, we opted not to raise the camper’s roof.

               By morning, the wind had dropped, the sun still shone and the temperature was definitely on the up. We made our way by the corniche to Collioure, overlooked by its Knights Templar fortress, and on to Port-Vendres and Banyuls and across the border into Spain for the first of three nights at Vilanova Park near Vilanova i la Geltrú, south of Barcelona.