Waterproofing my caravan awning.

I have recently gone over the seams of a new porch awning with an aerosol can of Fabsil water repellant which took most of the contents and I expect you would need several cans at about £9 each. I  have previously bought large tins full of waterproofing in liquid form which have to be applied with a brush (like painting an emulsion wall). It works well and cost a lot less and is easier to get an even spread. I would definitely go for a repellant to be brushed on when proofing a large area.

Hi SG. The pooling has to be down to either a tensioning problem (do you use a Hercules tensioner?) or, not giving the roof enough of a slope to shed the rain immediately. Try reducing the length of the front poles so that you increase the slope. Tirril is correct in his assertion that the tins of waterproofing liquid work out much cheaper. You can spray proofing on which is much less effort if you have a good quality sprayer, ie, one That atomises the liquid properly, the seams can then be ‘painted’ with liquid. With the modern awnings, the Tencate material never needs proofing- seems to be completely waterproof all the time. 

Tirril, I have exactly the same problem with my old 'big' awning and have found that increasing the slope front to back and from centre to the sides does help, but have had the same thought as you that if the water 'beaded off' better it wouldn't be an issue. While the awning doesn't leak at all, the water does 'stick' to the fabric of the roof and the frame acts as a barrier - as soon as a small 'dip' forms it's downhill from there.  I would love to hear if you have reproofed yours and found it has stopped the 'pooling'. Like you my 'big' awning rarely gets used, but with the whole family in the van it's still needed occasionally.

I have previously waterproofed an old frame tent with 'brush on' Fabsil and found it very effective.  To do the roof of an awning might be awkward, but you could probably do 3/4 of the width with it hanging down from the awning rail (from the back towards the front) then erect it and do the last 1/4 with the help of a stepladder if necessary??

For proofing I use Nikwax Tent and Gear. Have tried many and this stuff is superb. spray on and use a damp sponge to massage it in until it stops beading, leave to dry.

For best results use the cleaner first and let it dry before proofing.

Not found an aerosol one that was any good.