Removing a radiator - advice please

IanH replied on 08/01/2017 20:23

Posted on 08/01/2017 20:23

I am planning on removing a radiator in the kitchen so that I can tile behind it. This could be for several days, due to me being slow and the need to leave time for grouting etc.

Also, I may replace the radiator for a more modern type.

My questions to all the DiY experts out there - 

Is it sufficient to turn off the thermostic valve and the lock-shield valve, or do I need to cap the flow and return pipes?

Secondly, if / when I fit the new rad I will need to shorten or extend the pipework on at least one side. If I turn off the heating (turn off the power supply to the boiler) will there be a problem (i.e. flood) when I cut the pipe on one side?

JVB66 replied on 10/01/2017 09:18

Posted on 09/01/2017 19:34 by IanH

Thank you for all your tips and advice.

Anyway, took the radiator off today, after closing both valves. No real problem, just put old towels under to catch a few spills.

The thermostatic valve only has a 'frost' setting, not an 'off' setting.

Put the central heating on to check it and there was a dribble from the thermostatic valve - probably a cheap and nasty one.

So......decided to remove it and fit a capping fitting. Decided to use the 'Easy T method', unfastened the thermostatic valve, put my thumb over the pipe (which was like a geyser!) and had the capping fitting ready to put on.

Trouble was, the old brass olive appeared to be welded to the pipe, preventing me from putting on the capping fitting yell

Refitted the thermostatic valve and accepted the dribble for a while. Have now turned the heating down so low that it would take an ice age for it to come on. We will just have to manage until the tiling is done and the new rad is fitted.

For the latter, I will need a freezing kit........or a good, cheap plumber!

Posted on 10/01/2017 09:18

Ian  "Cheap" and "Good" as far as plumbers are concerned are on different planets especially this time of yearundecided

KjellNN replied on 10/01/2017 12:37

Posted on 10/01/2017 12:37

I would just drain down, you only need to take it below the level of that radiator.

If you isolate all the rads first by closing all the valves, the fluid to drain will be minimised, and there will be less new inhibitor required.

Is it a combi or a regular boiler?  System or Megaflow type HW?

mickysf replied on 10/01/2017 13:39

Posted on 10/01/2017 13:39

I've always used threaded flange plugs to cap off a temporally removed radiator for the likes of decorating purposes. Really easy to use. Cost less than £2 for a couple and I keep them in my tool box just in case,

replied on 10/01/2017 13:42

Posted on 10/01/2017 13:42

I think that Ian intends fitting a new rad at some point but I agree if just for decorating. 

replied on 10/01/2017 13:43

Posted on 10/01/2017 13:43

I think that Ian intends fitting a new rad at some point but I agree if just for decorating. 

mickysf replied on 10/01/2017 15:16

Posted on 10/01/2017 13:43 by

I think that Ian intends fitting a new rad at some point but I agree if just for decorating. 

Posted on 10/01/2017 15:16

Yes, either a drain down or use of a freeze system would be needed if reconfiguring which involves cutting the flow or return pipe work. The latter is a little more expensive so I'd drain down.

 

IanH replied on 10/01/2017 18:53

Posted on 10/01/2017 12:37 by KjellNN

I would just drain down, you only need to take it below the level of that radiator.

If you isolate all the rads first by closing all the valves, the fluid to drain will be minimised, and there will be less new inhibitor required.

Is it a combi or a regular boiler?  System or Megaflow type HW?

Posted on 10/01/2017 18:53

That's a good suggestion,KjellNN.

I assume that would leave all the radiators full and just empty the pipework?

I'm seriously considering draining, to avoid freezing the pipes and to enable the new radiator and valves (and associated changes to pipework) to be fitted and this could be a good compromise.

This would also enable me to fit a drain valve for future use, as the builder clearly didn't anticipate ever needing to drain the system.

The water in the radiator that I took off was really dirty so the full system (including radiators) could do with draining and flushing, but I might leave that for the summer.

IanH replied on 10/01/2017 18:56

Posted on 10/01/2017 09:18 by JVB66

Ian  "Cheap" and "Good" as far as plumbers are concerned are on different planets especially this time of yearundecided

Posted on 10/01/2017 18:56

Well, the one I rang and left a message on his answerphone (he only lives 5 minutes walk away) didn't even ring me back, so looks like a crash course in plumbing for me.

IanH replied on 10/01/2017 18:58

Posted on 10/01/2017 01:06 by DavidKlyne

I am not sure this is the time of year to be attempting to change elements of the central heating system. Removing a radiator to do some decorating is one thing but anything that requires new parts to the pipework is best left to warmer times of the year where it makes no difference if you have the heating on. It also allows you to drain the system down making any work far less risky. By all accounts we have an artic blast coming our way. You won't be the most popular person with Mrs H if she has no heatingsurprised

David

Posted on 10/01/2017 18:58

True, David......but we have the gas fire and underfloor heating in the bathroom, so hopefully will survive the arctic chill.

KjellNN replied on 10/01/2017 20:19

Posted on 10/01/2017 18:53 by IanH

That's a good suggestion,KjellNN.

I assume that would leave all the radiators full and just empty the pipework?

I'm seriously considering draining, to avoid freezing the pipes and to enable the new radiator and valves (and associated changes to pipework) to be fitted and this could be a good compromise.

This would also enable me to fit a drain valve for future use, as the builder clearly didn't anticipate ever needing to drain the system.

The water in the radiator that I took off was really dirty so the full system (including radiators) could do with draining and flushing, but I might leave that for the summer.

Posted on 10/01/2017 20:19

No drain valve? What were they thinking of!?

Yes, the rads should stay full if the valves shut off completely.

If you are draining, how will you do it if there is no drain valve?  Open a valve on the rad you have removed and collect the water a bowlful at a time?

The pipework below the level of the rad to be changed will not need to be drained, so once water stops coming out at the rad position you are ok.

Our drain valve is on a tee off the lowest point of the underfloor pipes and is a small tap thing just outside the wall of the house, very neat.

near Malvern Hills Club Campsite Member photo by Andrew Cole

Book a late escape

There's still availability at many popular UK Club campsites - find your perfect pitch today for a last minute trip!

Book now
Woman sitting in camping chair by Wastwater in the Lake District with her two dogs and picnic blanket

Follow us on Facebook

Follow the Caravan and Motorhome Club via our official Facebook page for latest news, holiday ideas, events, activities and special offers.

Photo of Wast Water, Lake District by Sue Peace
Visit Facebook