Relais Routiers (French transport cafe)

 

We spend several months a year across the Channel, mostly in France.  Whilst  travelling we eat at a "Routiers", (French transport cafe), these are far removed from the image of a British "greasy spoon". They usually start serving at 12 noon sharp.  We usually wait until a little later. Parking even a large rig is usually not a problem.  You pay around €11 to €14 each for which you usually get four courses, coffee is sometimes though not generally included as a 5th. Water, bread and wine or cidre (Brittany/Normandy) are included. Drivers don't forget the French drink drive limits are stricter than ours but the co-pilot will be OK.

  

The routine is pretty standard.  When you enter a large establishment you often have to buy a ticket for your meal though the general rule is to pay at the end of the meal.  You are often shown to your table or jestured to sit anywhere.  When you sit down a waiter will come and tell you what the choice of main courses are or give you a list (menu is too grand a word for the often hand written note) or point to a board, there is usually a choice of 3 or 4 main courses which you order from the waiter. After you have ordered you go to get your entrée, starters are almost always self service salads and cold meats etc though we have had langoustines included. On the rare occasion there isn't a cold cabinet or trolley the waiter will bring the starter. Water, bread and wine are often brought to the table though you may have to help yourself, watch what the truckers do. When you have finished the waiter will take your plate away when they bring your main course.  When you have finished this you usually help yourself to a sweet (cold cabinet) and then a selection of cheese (two or three small pieces from the cheese board).  In very small establishments you are more likely to have each course brought to you, they are also more likely to offer regional dishes , which is one of the reasons we love them. 

 

Between mid September and June the clientele will be almost exclusively truck drivers, white van men and reps though in the summer the French holiday makers also use them.  It is amazing to see French lorry drivers take a thimble full of wine from the free bottle and then pass it on to the next. Over many years we have only once seen other Brits in a Routiers.

 

Many Routiers open as restaurants in the evening when much the same food will cost you considerably more.  Even at the worst we have never had anything as bad as general "motorway service area food" in the UK at the best the food has been wonderful.

 

Go on give them a go!

 

Carl and Pat