Powrtouch Evolution problems

Albourneboy replied on 22/07/2019 10:44

Posted on 22/07/2019 10:44

We've had one of these on our caravan for the last 3 years and on the whole, it's been pretty reliable but we have had one issue that pops up now and then and another that occurred yesterday that I'll come to later.

The first problem concerns the 125 amp in-line fuse. The dealer who fitted the mover installed the fuse in its holder on the wall inside the bed box nearest the battery box, which on our Series 3 Bailey Unicorn is below the caravan floor. Twice now this fuse has snapped - not blown, snapped! I think what happens is because the cable from the battery to the fuse is fixed to the caravan floor (and is also quite rigid) and the fuse holder is fixed to the bed box wall, the bed box moves relative to the floor when the caravan is in motion. This is putting a strain on the fuse which eventually snaps. This leads to an intermittent contact causing the mover to stop working at inconvenient moments. I contacted PowrWheel who sent out a new fuse which I fitted yesterday but I've also ordered 5 more from Amazon so when it breaks again, I can quickly replace it.

If anybody has experienced their mover suddenly stopping for no apparent reason, locate and check the in-line fuse as you may have the same problem. Pull the cables attached to the fuse while watching the mover's control box. If the green LED lights up/goes out while pulling one of the cables the fuse has almost certainly snapped.

The second issue occurred just yesterday after I had replaced the in-line fuse. I checked the mover out to make sure it was working. I engaged the rollers but discovered that the RH side did not move. I used the T-Bar to wind it in by 2 turns as per the fault diagnosis section of the manual but still it wouldn't engage. With both sides disengaged, I checked the rollers and they responded correctly to the inputs from the remote control so power was getting to the motor. I then engaged the RH side with the T-Bar to see what would happen when I used the remote to disengage the system and lo-and-behold, both sides disengaged. However, normally the motors wind all the way back, then after a short delay, they wind forward by a couple of turns but the RH side one didn't do this, only the LH side did. When I used the remote to re-engage the system, the RH side did not respond.

Has anybody else experienced this and if so, what was the problem? I have rang PowrWheel but had to leave a message and so far, no one has called back so I though I'd see if any Club members had any ideas as to what could be wrong.

 

jennyc replied on 03/08/2019 09:06

Posted on 03/08/2019 09:06

We’ve had to lubricate the slots for alignment pins on ours a couple of times in five years. Here’s how.

Pull of or tap off the grey plastic covers for the MM. There are rubber plugs on the outside, which fool you into thinking that it’s screwed on, but they are cosmetic only. You’ll see why when the cover is off. The two horizontal slots which are greased, with alignment pegs running in them, are very visible and accessible on the outside. There are two identical slots on the rear face, which can be seen after you’ve wriggled under the van. Instructions tell you to use grease on the slots, but  good squirt of WD40 will work better if the mechanism is sticking.

There’s a deep recess at the rear end, protected by a plastic cap. That’s where your emergency T bar fits. Once lubricated, you can manually wind the mechanism in and out, to distribute the lubricant better. Alternatively, you can use a drill fitted with an extension bar and a small socket, to wind the mechanism back and forth.

An engineer told me that the next most likely culprit is the control box. He tests for this by swapping over the heavy duty cables which fed the two movers. A replacement control box will cost you around £350 if not under warranty.

It’s certainly worth lubricating the mechanism regularly, and probably engaging and disengaging it regularly, to keep things moving. The irritation being that the covers aren't screwed in place and they are hard to remove without some persuasion from a hammer.

Rufs replied on 03/08/2019 09:18

Posted on 03/08/2019 09:06 by jennyc

We’ve had to lubricate the slots for alignment pins on ours a couple of times in five years. Here’s how.

Pull of or tap off the grey plastic covers for the MM. There are rubber plugs on the outside, which fool you into thinking that it’s screwed on, but they are cosmetic only. You’ll see why when the cover is off. The two horizontal slots which are greased, with alignment pegs running in them, are very visible and accessible on the outside. There are two identical slots on the rear face, which can be seen after you’ve wriggled under the van. Instructions tell you to use grease on the slots, but  good squirt of WD40 will work better if the mechanism is sticking.

There’s a deep recess at the rear end, protected by a plastic cap. That’s where your emergency T bar fits. Once lubricated, you can manually wind the mechanism in and out, to distribute the lubricant better. Alternatively, you can use a drill fitted with an extension bar and a small socket, to wind the mechanism back and forth.

An engineer told me that the next most likely culprit is the control box. He tests for this by swapping over the heavy duty cables which fed the two movers. A replacement control box will cost you around £350 if not under warranty.

It’s certainly worth lubricating the mechanism regularly, and probably engaging and disengaging it regularly, to keep things moving. The irritation being that the covers aren't screwed in place and they are hard to remove without some persuasion from a hammer.

Posted on 03/08/2019 09:18

thank you, having just fitted a new evo I found this most informative, although i havent checked carefully, i think the grey cover you are now referring to is now held in place with a big pozi drive screw, or it appears to be, which could be a good upgrade to the product. 

Phishing replied on 19/08/2020 23:00

Posted on 19/08/2020 23:00

I am not going to knock Powrtouch, had a recent issue and they sorted very quickly and efficiently for me. 

You have to face the fact that movers have a hard life, blasted by grit and water as the air rushes under the van. I totally agree with a previous point that the corrosion resistance on the actuation bar and cross beam are not good enough but a blast with stonechip on the leading edges keeps the rust away.

footlooserv replied on 23/08/2020 16:00

Posted on 23/08/2020 16:00

Just found the fault on our powrtpouch manual version  that had been itermittently not working and then failed. The Truma isolating switch after the fuse holder had a bad connection on the outlet side (similar to main battery post problems). I had 13V on the post coming in and out but only 2.98V on the electronic box supply after this. Removing the cable off the Truma post I had to clean the nuts each side of the cable connector as well as connector itself. I also found that the back nut on the post had not secured the post tightly onto the inside of the switch which also may have caused a problem.

Also due to poor installation positioning of the electronic control box i could not gain access at first to the terminal positions for testing and i had to resite it! The fuse holder was also in my opinion fitted wrong as the securing clip on the cover was very close to the caravan outer wall making it impossible to get to.

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