Winterhoff friction pads

Daisy2 replied on 10/02/2018 14:44

Posted on 10/02/2018 14:44

Hi all. Me again!

So having managed to tow our little caravan home successfully after purchasing a few weeks ago, today was supposed to be her first outing...to the weighbridge.  So in the rain I finally managed to check nose weight and get hitched up (after making almost every basic error possible - I now have a checklist!) and pulled off the drive.  Lots of creaking and groaning so got out to check hitched correctly.  All seemed fine so set off again.  Lots more creaking and groaning so found first safe place to turn round and go back home!  (Which was really lucky as then realised I'd forgotten the towing mirrors - now also on my checklist!). So after googling I realise I need to invest in some brake cleaner for the tow ball.  I had wiped clean with a cloth before towing and noticed surface oxidation so seems I need to do a more thorough job.  But google search also implied I need to use the brake cleaner on the Winterhoff friction pads?  So for the complete novice, can you please tell me where I access them and what I need to do?  I know they will also need replacing fairly soon.  Is this a novice DIY job?  If not, does anyone know of a good mobile technician in the Bucks/Berks area please? 

Losing my nerve a bit and can see all future holidays being on the drive!  The towing I was worried about is easy, its all this other 'stuff' I'm struggling with. On the plus side I did manage to reverse it neatly onto the drive first time :-) 

Gratefully, Daisy

Milothedog replied on 10/02/2018 20:16

Posted on 10/02/2018 20:10 by EmilysDad

Fibber ..... 😉

Posted on 10/02/2018 20:16

I haven't. But I have broken a breakaway cable, left the hand brake on and forgotten to disengage the mover in the past embarassed

EmilysDad replied on 10/02/2018 20:29

Posted on 10/02/2018 20:16 by Milothedog

I haven't. But I have broken a breakaway cable, left the hand brake on and forgotten to disengage the mover in the past embarassed

Posted on 10/02/2018 20:29

I've not snapped a break-away cable, but guilty of the others. Leaving the mover on mskes a right old racket 😁

lornalou1 replied on 10/02/2018 23:09

Posted on 10/02/2018 23:09

just reading this post got me thinking. ( now my brain hurts ). ok it seems this is a huge problem in the towing world and everyone who has had the problem has cleaned/changed the pads and still got the creaking etc. when my brakes squealed on the car and the pads were nearly new condition I was advised to remove pads and put a small amount of copper grease on the metal back part of the pads and refit to calipers and low and behold the noise never returned. I think it would be worth trying putting a little copper grease on the back side of the pads and refitting, not on the pad contact itself or the tow ball. worth a try. I would do it on mine but haven't got the squeal yet.

Milothedog replied on 11/02/2018 09:11

Posted on 10/02/2018 23:09 by lornalou1

just reading this post got me thinking. ( now my brain hurts ). ok it seems this is a huge problem in the towing world and everyone who has had the problem has cleaned/changed the pads and still got the creaking etc. when my brakes squealed on the car and the pads were nearly new condition I was advised to remove pads and put a small amount of copper grease on the metal back part of the pads and refit to calipers and low and behold the noise never returned. I think it would be worth trying putting a little copper grease on the back side of the pads and refitting, not on the pad contact itself or the tow ball. worth a try. I would do it on mine but haven't got the squeal yet.

Posted on 11/02/2018 09:11

I cant see it will do any good LL1,

The noise from the coupling is a result of the friction between the Ball & Pads. Brake squeal is a result of high frequency vibrations between the moving and static parts of the brakes when under load during application.  Copper compounds just act as a insulator between the moving and static parts. 

This is why Brake pads used to have a steel shim on the back of them, and various types of spring clips to hold them in place, nowadays it's more common to see new pads with a rubberised/plastic coating applied to the piston face.

My WS3000 does it but soon stops after a few miles, 

Daisy3,  regards changing the pads. Is the wear indicator still showing a healthy amount of Green on the pop up button when the coupling is locked on the tow ball. If so there is plenty of life left in them.

smile

Milothedog replied on 11/02/2018 09:18

Posted on 10/02/2018 20:29 by EmilysDad

I've not snapped a break-away cable, but guilty of the others. Leaving the mover on mskes a right old racket 😁

Posted on 11/02/2018 09:18

"I've not snapped a break-away cable"

Happened when putting the caravan back in storage.

My excuse is OH asking me what we needed to take home while i was uncoupling and trying to keep an eye on two dogs with muddy feet in case they went in to the caravan. wink

It did make a big bang though as I pulled the car forward a couple of feet. Fitted a Hi-Vis one now so hopefully won't do it again embarassed

 

Daisy2 replied on 11/02/2018 23:29

Posted on 11/02/2018 09:11 by Milothedog

I cant see it will do any good LL1,

The noise from the coupling is a result of the friction between the Ball & Pads. Brake squeal is a result of high frequency vibrations between the moving and static parts of the brakes when under load during application.  Copper compounds just act as a insulator between the moving and static parts. 

This is why Brake pads used to have a steel shim on the back of them, and various types of spring clips to hold them in place, nowadays it's more common to see new pads with a rubberised/plastic coating applied to the piston face.

My WS3000 does it but soon stops after a few miles, 

Daisy3,  regards changing the pads. Is the wear indicator still showing a healthy amount of Green on the pop up button when the coupling is locked on the tow ball. If so there is plenty of life left in them.

smile

Posted on 11/02/2018 23:29

Thanks Milothedog.  No...they are just on the green side.  Clearly deemed 'OK' by the pdi check at the dealership but I've no idea how many miles it would equate to :-(

LGHOOKER replied on 10/08/2021 10:50

Posted on 10/08/2021 10:50

Hi

Has anyone found a video of how to actually change the friction pads? 

There's a few diagrams on the Winterhoff site but they aren't comprehensive by any means.

Doesn't even show how to remove the rubber nose cover.

Any suggestions?

Thanks

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