Ray Rutter heads to Speyside in Scotland – a region renowned for its fine whiskies
Bow Fiddle Rock near Portknockie
For anyone who enjoys a dram of whisky, the Holy Grail is perhaps a visit to the world-famous Speyside region in Scotland’s Highlands, home to more than 50 distilleries. So it was in May that my wife Angela, eldest son Tom and I found ourselves heading towards Culloden Moor Club Campsite. Situated close to the beautiful and rapidly growing city of Inverness, it sits just to the west Speyside and is the perfect base from which to visit some of the distilleries in the area.
Our journey from north-west Staffordshire to Inverness was surprisingly easy, taking us along the A9 past Aviemore, where mountains were still snow-capped despite it being late spring. On the approach to the site we could see Inverness and the spectacular Kessock Bridge set against the Beauly Firth and the Moray Firth.
Culloden Moor is surrounded by hills and forest and has a wonderfully international feel about it. Our neighbours were Dutch, and there were many other visitors from the Netherlands, Germany, France, Spain, Portugal and even America. I soon got talking to our fellow campers, who told me they had been looking at the sky charts in the site’s information room – this is the perfect site for those who, like me, have an interest in astronomy.
Urquhart Castle, Loch Ness
The nearby Caledonian Canal is a huge Victorian engineering masterpiece connecting the east and west coasts of Scotland from Corpach near Fort William to Inverness some 60 miles away. Designed by the genius Scottish civil engineer Thomas Telford, it is an incredible sight – the busy locks just have to be seen, as does our next stop.
Loch Ness is both incredibly beautiful and incredibly large – in fact, it contains more water than all the lakes in England and Wales combined. Be sure to take a journey through 500 million years of history at the Loch Ness Centre, while, sitting on the banks of the loch, the ruined Urquhart Castle is a must-visit, offering stunning views and a taste of the past.
We crammed in as many outdoor excursions at the beginning of our holiday as we could, as we didn’t expect the good weather to last – but it did! Recommended are a cruise on the Dolphin Spirit from Inverness and the short walk from the site to the battlefield at Culloden with its fantastic visitor centre, which explains how 1,500 men died in under an hour during what became the last battle on British soil.
Built in the wake of this battle, Fort George must rank as one of the most spectacular, not to say mightiest, fortifications in Britain – if not Europe. It is currently the home of The Black Watch, 3rd Battalion, Royal Regiment of Scotland.
After visiting Lossiemouth – known as the Jewel of the Moray Firth – with its pair of beautiful sandy beaches, fishing history and RAF base, we travelled 24 miles or so east to the old and picturesque seaside village of Findochty. Venture further along the coast and you reach Bow Fiddle Rock, an incredible natural sea arch near Portknockie.
The tasting room at Aberlour Distillery
We had planned to visit four distilleries (a hard choice when you consider the number in the region!), but alas the road to Glenlivet was closed. So our first port of call became Cardhu Distillery, established in 1824 by John Cumming, a whisky smuggler, and his wife Helen. The distillery has a first-rate visitor centre with a top-notch audio/visual theatre display and helpful staff. After tasting a selection of silky smooth whiskies, we decided upon the 12-year-old single malt.
With two happy passengers and a sober driver (Angela), it was just a short journey to Aberlour Distillery. I spoke with John Wilson, who runs the visitor facilities, before our visit and he welcomed us upon arrival – a friendly and helpful man, his knowledge of whisky was very impressive; what he doesn’t know about the subject isn’t worth knowing.
Having sampled a bit more than we probably should have, we left with a bottle each, all from very different casks and of differing ages. Before heading off, we took the short walk behind the distillery to the beautiful Linn Falls in the hills.
It was then on to Glenfiddich Distillery (creator of my late father’s favourite whisky). The name ‘Glenfiddich’ is derived from the Scottish Gaelic Gleann Fhiodhaich, meaning ‘valley of the deer’, which is reflected in the company’s stag logo.
Founded by William Grant in 1886, and home of the famed, multiple-award-winning 12-year-old single malt, this Dufftown-based distillery’s whiskies are now sold in 180 countries around the world.
After once again sampling and buying more than my poor wallet could suffer, we headed back to the Culloden Moor campsite, travelling through the beautiful Cairngorms National Park, very tired but extremely satisfied.
The perfect end to the perfect tour. Cheers!
Cardhu Distillery, Knockando, Aberlour AB38 7RY
Contact: malts.com/en/distilleries/cardhu; 01479 874635
Aberlour Distillery, A95, Aberlour AB38 9PJ
Contact: aberlour.com; 01340 881249
Glenfiddich Distillery, Dufftown AB55 4DH
Contact: glenfiddich.com; 01340 820373
The impressive Caledonian Canal
Culloden Moor Club Campsite, Inverness
Near to the famous Culloden battlefield, this seven-acre campsite offers unspoilt views of the stunning Nairn Valley. An ideal location from which to visit the numerous whisky distilleries in the Spey Valley, the site is also great for dog owners, with plenty of forest walks.
A selection of UK distilleries near Club campsites, all of which Ray has visited on previous tours
Dartmoor Whisky, The Old Town Hall, Town Hall Place, Bovey Tracey, Newton Abbot, Devon TQ13 9EG
Contact: dartmoorwhisky distillery.co.uk; 01626 832874
Stay at: Stover Club campsite
Penderyn Distillery (above), Pontpren, Penderyn, Rhondda Cynon Taf CF44 0SX
Contact: penderyn.wales; 01685 813300
Stay at: Brecon Beacons Club campsite
Aber Falls Distillery, Station Road, Abergwyngregyn, Gwynedd LL33 0LB
Contact: aberfallsdistillery.com; 01248 209224
Stay at: Penrhos, Cae Mawr Club campsites, Riverside AS
The Lakes Distillery (above), Setmurthy, near Bassenthwaite Lake, Cumbria CA13 9SJ
Contact: lakesdistillery.com; 017687 88850
Stay at: Meathop Fell Club campsite
Bladnoch Distillery, Bladnoch, Dumfries & Galloway DG8 9AB
Contact: bladnoch.com; 01988 402605
Stay at: Garlieston Club campsite
