All in good time

From Victorian tunnels and a picturesque watermill to a heritage railway line and a boat museum, Karla Baker uncovers a wealth of social history during a leisurely journey through the West Country

The Strawberry Line - Shute Shelve Railway Tunnel

Gently undulating vistas, steep hillsides, deep valleys, sandy stretches and craggy coastlines – the West Country seems to have it all. On this trip, however, my partner and I were eager to explore just two of its counties – Devon and Somerset – delving into their social history while enjoying their natural landscapes.

We began in Somerset, at Cheddar Club Campsite on the edge of the Mendip Hills. From here, it is a short walk into the village of Cheddar, known, of course, for its cheese. As well as stocking up on this world-famous delicacy, you can’t visit Cheddar without exploring its impressive limestone gorge.

More physically able sightseers will enjoy Gough’s Cave (where Britain’s oldest complete human skeleton was discovered) and a spectacular, three-mile cliff-top walk, while for those who

prefer a more laid-back approach, a drive through the gorge is a must! On a warm spring day we snaked between the towering, jagged rocks, amazed by the wild goats, who seemed to navigate the vertical landscape with ease. Such a dramatic scene – it was hard to believe we were still in England!

As well as its cheese, Cheddar is also famous for its strawberries. The Cheddar Valley Line was once used to deliver the locally grown fruit by train across the country. Nowadays, vast sections of the trackbed have been made into a cycleway, known as the Strawberry Line. Ideal for wheelchairs, we set off from a car park outside Axbridge.

The path was bordered by wildflowers, lit up in the afternoon sun, attracting countless bees and butterflies. Dotted along the route were relics of the Steam Age, including the 165m-long Shute Shelve Tunnel. I couldn’t help but imagine the engines whooshing through long ago, leaving clouds of steam and dust in their wake.

To infinity and beyond

Clevedon Pier

Our next base was Ballards Acre Certificated Location, just 13 miles north of Cheddar. This peaceful site is surrounded by farmland, but is within easy reach of the M5 and close to Weston-super-Mare. Jane, the owner, welcomed us warmly, and shared her encyclopedic knowledge of the local area, giving us lots of ideas for things to do. At the top of our list was Clevedon, just five miles away. This relaxed, Victorian seaside town is home to the world’s largest seawater ‘infinity pool’ (Clevedon Marine Lake) and England’s only Grade I-listed pier.

Completed in 1869 and comprising around 370 tonnes of wrought ironwork, the pier is a work of art! Strolling along it, we admired the ornate detailing and the view across Clevedon Bay. The weather was so calm and clear that, when we reached the end, we could see South Wales, with Cardiff’s skyscrapers rising from the horizon.

The following day we packed up and traced the Bristol Channel south and then west to Minehead Club Campsite. We pitched up in a cosy corner, surrounded by tall, lush trees, which provided welcoming stippled shade.

’Head of steam

Dunster Catle ©National Trust Images/James Aitken

As well as having a vibrant high street and golden, sandy beach, Minehead is home to the West Somerset Railway. Whether you are a lover of locomotives or just enjoy a ride through beautiful countryside, the nostalgic 20-mile trip from Minehead to Bishops Lydeard is not to be missed. The line embraces coast and countryside, with the steam train stopping in numerous quaint villages and towns – we alighted at Watchet.

There was barely a cloud in the sky as we wandered around this ancient harbour town. Eager to learn more, we nipped into the Boat Museum, which offers a fascinating glimpse into the past. Although relatively small, it was jam-packed with historic flat-bottomed boats, ropes and other artefacts, telling stories of seafarers through the ages.

Having satisfied our hunger for knowledge, we satisfied our tummies with an ice cream as we strolled along the esplanade. Making our way out to the tip of the harbour wall, we sat and soaked up the sunshine and the views across the shimmering Bristol Channel, imagining all the vessels that traversed it in days gone by.

Our luck with the weather continued the following day, when we headed to Dunster Castle, just five minutes’ drive from the site. Perched on a wooded hillside, the medieval castle itself is unfortunately inaccessible to powerchairs, but its exterior is spectacular, and there is so much else to see and do nearby! We began by exploring the subtropical gardens, then found ourselves at the historic watermill, which is fed by the River Avill.

We enjoyed watching the enormous wheels turning, grinding local wheat into flour, and couldn’t resist picking up a bag, which, by the time you’re reading this, we will have baked into a (hopefully!) delicious loaf.

Exe marks the spot

Near Exebridge Lakeside Club site. Photo by member Sharon Stevens

Hitching up, we continued our tour south into Devon, arriving at Exebridge Lakeside Club Campsite on the edge of Exmoor National Park. Surrounded by a sea of greenery, the site was an oasis of calm even on a bank holiday weekend.

Locally, there are endless walking opportunities (I highly recommend Wimbleball Lake) and chocolate-box villages to explore, full of wisteria-clad thatched cottages and charming tearooms. But don’t miss out on a drive across the moors; following the River Exe, we made our way along narrow, winding roads, through dark tunnels of trees that then opened up to reveal a panorama like no other. A purple carpet of heather gave way to a sloping patchwork of greens and browns, with the Bristol Channel glistening in the far distance. Even in a light drizzle, it was a captivating sight.

Beach boys and girls

Hele Bay, Ilfracombe. Photo by member Michael Tucker

The final stop on our tour took us to Willingcott Club Campsite on Devon’s north coast. Its relaxed atmosphere and intimate pitches, separated by vibrant wildflower banks buzzing with life, give the site great appeal. As an added bonus it offers direct access to a smooth, scenic cycleway (NCN 27), not to mention nearby historic towns and beautiful beaches.

Tunnels Beaches in Ilfracombe is particularly fascinating. These two sheltered beaches (the Ladies’ and the Gentlemen’s) are exclusively accessed via tunnels hand-carved through the cliff, and date back to the 1830s, when men and women were segregated for reasons of propriety.

The world has changed a lot since then, but the attraction remains beautifully preserved, and the information boards and bygone newspaper clippings dotted about the tunnels make for interesting reading. A truly unique experience!

And just two miles from Willingcott you’ll find the award-winning beach at Woolacombe. On our final evening, we couldn’t miss the opportunity to watch the sun dip behind the ocean, leaving the sky ablaze and the golden sand glowing. It was the perfect way to end a memorable tour of Somerset and North Devon.