Book a Club campsite
Explore hundreds of Club campsites and plan for stays throughout the year. There are plenty of locations to choose from, search and book today.
Book nowHonouring the past
Remembering his father’s wartime service, Ray Rutter embarks on a tour of the Kent coast
Ray’s father Christopher Rutter; Christopher at the Arromanches Landings memorial during a reunion
As a young man, my late father, Christopher Rutter, served in the military in Kent during the Second World War, before taking part in the D-Day landings at Arromanches beach in Normandy and subsequent major battles in Bayeux and Caen. Having visiting my Dad’s old barracks in Dorchester a few years ago, my wife Angela and I decided to look further into his wartime history, planning a two-week trip around Kent to trace his footsteps in more detail.
Many of the military memorials dotted along the English south coast are within easy reach of Club campsites. Kent in particular boasts a well-placed range of sites, Affiliated sites and Certificated Locations offering the perfect opportunity to honour my father’s experiences and see what else this beautiful part of England has to offer. For the duration of our tour, we were pitched up at Daleacres Club Campsite, situated near Hythe on the south coast, not far from the M20.
Christopher was stationed at various locations across the county but mentioned the eastern seaside towns of Deal and Sandwich often. In his initial military role as a motorcycle despatch rider he would have been very familiar with this stretch of coastline and the military positions along it. The modern visitor will find the area bursting with places that are looked after by the National Trust and English Heritage, and we tried to visit one each day. One recommendation is Walmer Castle, just outside Deal, which was built by Henry VIII as a defence against invasion. Following recent renovations, it is now possible to explore more rooms than ever inside the Tudor fortress.
Wartime defences
Gallery
I have always associated Dover with ferry crossings, but Christopher would have visited the town many times while on duty, particularly its spectacular castle. Built in the 1180s, it played a defensive role in the medieval, Tudor and Victorian eras, as well as two world wars. It is a remarkably complete castle, and for me, it’s the jewel in the English Heritage crown.
We struggled to see everything here in just one day. The underground tunnels, war rooms and hospital are fascinating, and the castle grounds are even home to a Saxon church (St Mary in Castro) and rare Roman lighthouse.
In 1940, Winston Churchill ordered the construction of gun batteries along this stretch of coast as an additional defence – Wanstone Battery, just a short distance east of Dover Castle, has in recent times been excavated, and open days are sometimes held. We also stopped by the sound mirrors located at nearby Fan Bay. These were built around 1920 as a forerunner to radar and increased the range at which enemy aircraft could be detected – trained military personnel claimed they could hear enemy aircraft taking off in Belgium and France.
After all this exploring we were in need of refreshments, so we headed for The Coastguard in St Margaret’s Bay. This nautically-themed pub is nestled in the foot of Bay Hill under those iconic white cliffs, and has been the closest English pub to France for 300 years.
Nearby sits South Foreland Lighthouse, which overlooks the treacherous Goodwin Sands and offers stunning views. In 1858 it was the first lighthouse in the world to shine an electric light, and on Christmas Eve 1898 it received the world’s first ship-to-shore radio transmission. Take your camera or binoculars – it's a real treat.
Back in the direction of Hythe, we stopped at Folkestone and climbed Castle Hill, the site of what was Folkestone Castle. It overlooks the town, the coast and the impressive Eurotunnel rail terminal. My youngest son, Joe, worked as a rail engineer there and recommended this viewpoint to me. Folkestone itself has developed a reputation in recent years as being a quirky and creative hub – there’s lots of public art on display throughout the town, while the harbour arm and surrounding area feature lots of places to eat as well as craft stalls.
Royal connection
Romney, Hythe and Dymchurch Railway
Closer to site, we explored the 28-mile-long Royal Military Canal, which runs through Hythe itself. As its name suggests, it was built as a defence during the Napoleonic Wars, although it was never used as such. Today it is a valued resource attracting walkers and cyclists. The lovely Romney, Hythe and Dymchurch Railway is also a must-see. The heritage steam trains run 13½ miles along the coast, with stops along the way, providing a fun way to explore the area’s beaches. The otherworldly shingle beach at its westernmost terminus, Dungeness, is Britain’s only designated desert. Backing on to the beach is Dungeness National Nature Reserve, which is a great place to spot interesting birdlife and fauna at any time of year.
One morning we ventured to the beach at Hythe for a dip and found many of the friendly locals doing the same; I was amazed to find the water nice and warm. Later that day, we took a pleasant stroll up the hill in Hythe to St Leonard’s Church to explore its famous ossuary. This is the biggest and best-preserved collection of human skulls and bones in Britain, estimated to contain the remains of over 2,000 people. An extremely knowledgeable gentleman was on hand to tell us all about it.
A surprise encounter
Walking above the iconic 'White Cliffs'
On a clear, sunny day we took a walk along the famous white cliffs, and I took my binoculars hoping for a good view of France, and shipping in the Channel.
I thought of my dad again as we walked, the cliffs being such a powerful icon of dogged and unremitting defence during the Second World War. Just think of that image of a Spitfire or Hurricane flying over the cliffs! I could hardly believe it when, not long into our walk, I caught on the wind the unmistakable rasp of a Merlin engine. A small dot appeared in the sky, and sure enough, there it was, swooping low along the white cliffs as though scripted: a converted twin-seat Spitfire! As a lifelong aviation nut, I was delighted.
Although we did a good job of exploring the Kent coast through my father’s eyes, it was apparent that it’s impossible to try and see everything this beautiful county has to offer in a mere two weeks.
- I recently noticed with some interest that the the Club now runs a 10-night ‘D-Day: New Forest to Normandy’ tour – an excellent way to visit the D-Day landing beaches and associated landmarks (the next one runs in July 2025 – see camc.com/european-tours for more information). The tour includes five nights’ stay at Le Château de Martragny campsite, which is close to Arromanches. This campsite can also, of course, be booked independently, but I imagine an organised tour would be very informative.
Stay at these campsites to discover the best of Kent (please check opening dates)
Situated to the south of Maidstone, Bearsted sits next farmland and offers plenty of opportunity to explore the Kentish countryside, including the nearby North Downs. Not to be missed are the world-famous Leeds Castle, which is only two miles away, and Rochester Cathedral, the second oldest cathedral in England.
Black Horse Farm Club Campsite
In the picturesque Kent Downs National Landscape, Black Horse Farm is a great base for exploring south Kent. The historic city of Canterbury is within easy reach, and there are public transport links to Folkestone and Dover.
Daleacres offers great facilities and offers easy access to the likes of the Romney, Hythe and Dymchurch Railway and Port Lympne Safari Park. The popular towns of Rye, Folkestone and Dover are also within reach. Tent-camping friends and family could join you on a holiday at this popular site.
