Time for Tees

Jonathan Manning enjoys stunning views on a challenging route through the Pennines

The tumultuous River Tees is the guide for this circular ride into the heart of the Pennines from Teesdale Barnard Castle Club Campsite. The best views come from on high during the return leg,

although it’s hard to beat the panorama from the footbridge in Barnard Castle that gazes downstream to the town’s striking fortress.

While the outward half of the ride follows the Tees Valley, glimpses of the river are few and far between. Instead, it’s the change in countryside that makes its mark, farmland giving way to rough grazing, drystone walls and field barns, with moorland higher up.

Hannah Hauxwell, the farmer who featured in several documentaries during the 1970s that chronicled her desperately tough lifestyle without electricity or running water, lived and worked near here. Today, the villages seem altogether more prosperous, with attractive pubs and greens. It’s definitely worth a short detour in Romaldkirk to see the 12th-century church of St Romald.

Middleton-in-Teesdale marks the halfway point of the ride with a fine view of the river and a choice of cafés for a coffee and cake. The Tees’pot is a good place to head for its scones (and who doesn’t love a good pun?).

The second half of the ride heads back along Teesdale, with a wide panorama opening over the river and the hills that rise above it. It’s a high road that’s exposed to the wind, with a steady climb leading to a long, speedy descent.

This is an exceptionally easy route to navigate – there’s only one direction to follow in the first 18 miles, but this is due in part to it following B-roads. On a sunny July day the traffic was light but fast, although there is plenty of room for it to overtake.

Just before the finish, the ride dives into Barnard Castle, a handsome market town blessed with a number of places to stop for refreshments if you fancy a bite to eat before the final half a mile back to the Club site.

You can download this route from our dedicated Strava page here.

Directions

1. From the Club site turn left along the B6277. Stay on this road through Lartington, Cotherstone, Romaldkirk (divert to see the church), all the way to Middleton- in-Teesdale. Cross the River Tees and continue to the T-junction.

2. 15km – Turn right at the T-junction, opposite Ozzy’s Pizzas, signposted to Barnard Castle and Eggleston along the B6282. Follow the B6282 to Eggleston where the same road becomes the B6278. Continue into Barnard Castle, passing the GSK factory on the left and golf course on the right, to reach a T-junction.

3. 30km – Turn right at the T-junction, along Galgate, signposted to Town Centre and Bowes Museum. Continue into the town centre, and immediately in front of the large Methodist church, with the Post Office on the right, turn right along Flatts Road and follow it as it bends 90º
to the left. At the next corner, in about 50m just before Raby Avenue, turn left along the bridleway, signposted to Bowes and Tan Hill. The bridleway leads steeply down to a pedestrian footbridge across the river. On the far side, turn right to return to Teesdale Barnard Castle Club Campsite in 700m.

About the route

• Start/finish: Teesdale Barnard Castle Club Campsite, Lartington Lane, Barnard Castle, DL12 9BD.
• Distance: 20 miles/32km.
• Time: 2 hours.
• Level: Suitable for fitter riders and e-bikes.
• Terrain: Asphalt. Landscape: Farmland, moorland and woodland.
• Refreshments: Fox & Hounds, Cotherstone; Rose & Crown, Kirk Inn and The Oaks Tearoom in Romaldkirk; The Crown at Mickleton; lots of options in Middleton-in-Teesdale and Barnard Castle.

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The Caravan and Motorhome Club make no warranties concerning the accuracy or completeness of the routes published, which to the best of our knowledge were correct at the time of publication. Your use of the routes is at your own risk and we accept no responsibility for the suitability or safety of any routes published. Routes may be out of date or affected by changes to the physical environment and, to the extent permitted by law, we accept no responsibility for personal injury or property damage caused by your use of the routes.