Easy does it

Karen Wright explores the Dordogne and Creuse

Karen cooking al fresco

Our last big motorhome trip was wonderful but hectic – we visited 13 campsites in three countries (you can read about my experiences in the November 2023 and April 2024 editions of this magazine)! This year we opted to spend the whole of June in France, lingering longer on fewer campsites, meaning our pace was more relaxed. After perusing the Club’s European brochure for inspiration, we decided to visit four different areas: the Loire, Dordogne, Aveyron and Creuse.

We took the ferry to Calais, then drove five hours south to our first site, Camping Gien. Situated right on the banks of the Lôire river, the site is just a stroll over a bridge from the pretty town of Gien, which is overlooked by a small château. As always, on arrival at a new campsite, my first thought was about food and trying local specialities, so I bought some sausages from the butcher’s shop and was inspired to cook a delicious cassoulet for dinner.

Welcome site

Huttopia Beaulieu sur Dordogne

Our base for the next six nights was around 400km further south at Huttopia Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne, situated just across the river from the town of the same name. The first French holiday we had as a family of four was to the Dordogne so I have some very fond memories of this area. The journey was very easy and we were soon back in the landscape of rolling hills and fairytale turrets I remember.

Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne is exquisite and has a bustling feel to it, offering the likes of a bank, tourist office, shops, bars and restaurants, plus a medieval quarter which reminded me of the animated film Beauty and the Beast.

We quickly settled in and spent most of our days around the campsite. We swam in the gorgeous pool every day, played table tennis and badminton using free-to-borrow equipment, took bike rides around the quiet lanes and walked along the riverbank. I cooked al fresco every day using ingredients bought at the local market.

We managed to do some exploring too, driving through local towns – including Rocamadour, a truly spectacular clifftop town – as far as the picturesque La Roque-Gageac, which is the third most visited settlement in France. It was once a bustling river port – we took a ride on one of the gabarres, traditional flat-bottomed boats that once would have transported goods up and down the river. We sailed as far as Château de Castelnaud, listening to an audio guide that explained the history of the town, which has been occupied since prehistoric times.

All too soon, our six days at the lovely campsite came to an end and we prepared to embark on the next leg of our holiday – an escorted tour in Aveyron, which I will cover in a future article. After the tour, we headed north for our final stop in the Creuse department, in the very centre of France. We first visited in 2002, and that trip heralded a whole change in direction for us as it was while there that we decided to buy our very own French property.

Pleasure Creuse

Les Pierres Jaumâtres

We travelled to Creuse with happy hearts, the weather glorious. En route we passed a significant landmark, the Puy de Dôme, which is the highest volcano in the Chaîne de Puys region of the Massif Central. Once off the motorway and weaving our way through small villages, everything started to look very familiar; my excitement gathered pace as we drove towards Boussac, where our campsite for the next four nights, Le Château de Poinsouze, was located.

The campsite sits within the park of a 15th-century Renaissance château. Our wonderful pitch was huge and offered a lake view. As a major bonus, it also featured a small wooden chalet that provided a bathroom fitted with a toilet, sink and shower, plus a fridge, a gas hob and picnic table.

One of our trips out was to visit Les Pierres Jaumâtres, just 10km away. The ‘pierres’ are a fantastic sight: piles of ancient granite rocks sat atop Mont Barlot. The view from up there is outstanding and there is also a popular restaurant. We only stopped for a cold drink, but hopefully we’ll eat there one day! There are other fun activities for the whole family too, including an adventure course in the trees, mini golf and trampolines.

Château de Boussac

About 5km along the road is the hilltop village of Toulx-Sainte-Croix, which is home to a Romanesque church with a beautiful interior. Another popular landmark is the observation tower which offers a 360˚ view of the area – on a clear day, you can spot the Puy de Dôme. I had packed a picnic lunch, and we enjoyed this at the small lake in Boussac before spending the rest of the day pottering around the town and visiting the imposing Château de Boussac.

My afternoons were spent on the campsite as the weather was so hot and sunny. The swimming pool offers views of both the lake and rolling hills – it’s quite a landscape! You can fish in the lake too or hire canoes/rowing boats from reception.

The campsite also has animal attractions, and there has always been a resident donkey! On our first visit, our youngest daughter loved to go to say hello to it every day. Fellow Club member Cameron Burns told me he remembers being on site when the donkey made a bid for freedom and was chased around the site by staff, only to be found nibbling clothes on a washing line!

On the final evening of our month-long holiday, we booked into the site restaurant, which prides itself on using seasonal and locally sourced ingredients. Both the food and the setting were fabulous, and we dined outside watching the setting sun – a perfect experience.

Our 2024 motorhome trip was brilliant. We visited spectacular locations, peaceful and relaxing locales, sleepy villages and bustling towns. We camped by lakes, and we camped by rivers. I swam most days, I settled down to a bit of reading or writing, and I enjoyed a little people-watching. But most of all I relaxed and tried to drink in all the wonders that a holiday in France can offer!

• If Karen has inspired you to visit the region, please visit camc.com/overseas to book the featured campsites and see other options.