Cold mountains

Lee Davey heads for the Dolomites and enjoys a fantastic – if unusually chilly – winter break

Caravan Park Sexten

Winter touring means different things to different people. For some, the colder months bring narrower horizons, with many choosing UK-based holidays until warmer weather returns. However, others view wintry destinations as an opportunity to hit the ski slopes or simply experience a popular region out of season.

As I discovered, a caravan or motorhome holiday is a brilliant way to explore colder climes. Our destination was the Dolomites, a mountain range in north-eastern Italy, forming part of the Southern Limestone Alps. With the highest peaks topping 10,000ft, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is understandably popular with skiers, snowboarders and other outdoor enthusiasts.

Our plan was to pack our winter gear into our motorhome, cross the Channel on LeShuttle and head for Caravan Park Sexten in the heart of the mountains, stopping en route in Germany. The weather changed just an hour from Calais, with snow falling in places that hadn’t seen any in years. However, our winter tyres earned their stripes, and we made good progress. (To read more about requirements when touring abroad during winter, please see the Club website at camc.com/overseaswinterequipment.)

Germany’s Eifel-Camp is located close to Eifel National Park in a rural setting next to Lake Freilingen (the world-famous Nürburgring motorsports circuit is about half an hour’s drive away). Unfortunately on this occasion our itinerary left little time to explore the area, but it’s safe to say it is perfect for off-season walks followed by mugs of hot chocolate back on site.

One local attraction that looks particularly interesting is Kasselburg Eagle and Wolf Park. The 12th-century castle is home to numerous birds of prey, whose aerial skills can be witnessed during special displays, as well as the largest half-wild wolf pack in Europe. I’ve made a note to revisit when time allows.

From Eifel-Camp we embarked upon the long journey south to Caravan Park Sexten. Upon arrival we discovered that it was festooned with icicles, the snow crisp underfoot. As we made our way to the pitch, many folks were ‘clipping in’ before skiing across the campsite towards nearby slopes. A snow chain-equipped JCB cleared the snowfall – in stark contrast to the ride-on lawnmowers we see on sites in summer back home.

Having an appalling sense of balance, I didn’t plan to ski from dawn to dusk, so I was pleased to find that the campsite also catered for those who prefer a slower pace. The indoor swimming pool, spa, sauna and hot tubs complex was the perfect place in which to relax – there is an extra charge, but it was €14 well spent.

’Snow big deal

Driving conditions were excellent

An unusually deep six inches of snow fell shortly after our arrival, and overnight temperatures dropped to a remarkable -20˚C (‘only’ -10˚C was predicted). Thankfully, beefy electric supplies are routed to each pitch and, combined with the motorhome’s diesel heating and Grade III insulation, we were soon feeling toasty.

Driving through the Dolomites in wintry conditions was surprisingly easy, even though the daytime ‘highs’ were as low as –7˚C. The mountain roads were completely free of snow and ice; in fact, conditions were so good that a classic car rally passed as we enjoyed elevenses in a lay-by. The cavalcade of Porsche 356s, Volvo Amazons and early Alfas was a testament to the snow-clearing ability of the Italian authorities. It’s also worth noting that the bus service continued to run regardless of the weather.

After a morning of sightseeing, we spent the afternoon relaxing, hopping from the hot tub to the outdoor pool to the poolside recliner, from where we made our evening plans. The on-site restaurant is exceptional, but with pizza calling, we drove a few minutes into town to the excellent Pizzeria Ristorante Erich. Talking of food, while you are in this part of the world, be sure to try ‘Tris di Canederli’ – a trio of dumplings made from stale bread soaked in milk, eggs and combined with the likes of ham, cheese or spinach.

Illustration by Louise Turpin

Again, time for sightseeing was short – but history buffs visiting during the summer months may be interested to know that, just over 20 minutes’ drive from Caravan Park Sexten lies the Bunker Museum. Construction of the fortification here began during the Second World War but was not completed until 1950 when it became part of NATO defence plans during the Cold War.

Our whistle-stop tour lasted just a week but proved to be the perfect winter holiday. Caravans and motorhomes make these sorts of trips much more affordable, and transporting skis and snowboards in them is straightforward too. And, of course, whether you own a motorhome, campervan or caravan, the ever-changing view from the window will always be unbeatable.

• If Lee has inspired you to visit the region, please visit camc.com/overseas to book the featured campsites and see other options.