A Family Adventure in the Alps

Marcus Leach explains why he and his family find the French Alps impossible to resist.

Not for the first time in my life I feel utterly overwhelmed by nature. Standing here, high in the French Alps surrounded by a sea of jagged peaks, a silence broken only by the occasional whistle and whine of the wind, I’m filled with a sense of wonder. These are the moments I seek, moments of unadulterated joy, reminders of the fragility of life and the need to live it now while I can. 

For all of our recent travels, the far off mountain ranges that we have traversed and the lesser trodden paths we’ve explored, there is something about the French Alps that keeps calling us back. An innate magnetism that is impossible to resist. And so it is that we once again find ourselves journeying between these great folds of land, only this time we are travelling in convoy with my Mum.  

Perhaps one of the greatest joys of travel, for us at least, is to share it with others, to open their eyes to places previously unseen and allow them to expand their horizons. With this in mind our route south through the mountains would more or less follow the ‘Route des Grande Alpes’, allowing us to not only re-visit some of our favourite places, but share them with my Mum for the first time. 

Our starting point would be Le Grand Bornand and the perfectly situated Camping L’Escale. I say perfectly situated because, no matter what appeals to you in the mountains, L’Escale has it all on its doorstep. For those who prefer a more sedate experience the heart of the village, with its cobbled streets, charming square, old church and a cluster of great cafes, eateries and shops focusing on regional specialities is a five minute walk from the site entrance. 

However, if like us, you prefer to get out on the hiking and cycling trails then you are spoilt for choice. Within the immediate vicinity of the site there are around 150km of well marked and maintained hiking trails that enable you to get lost, metaphorically speaking at least, in the surrounding mountains. There’s also no shortage of road cycling options, with several climbs made famous by the Tour de France starting from the village, most notable of which is the twelve kilometre ascent up Col de la Colombière. 

One climb that you won’t find in the annals of Tour de France history is Col des Annes. Why? Because it is a narrow dead-end road. Not that that should deter you from heading up here, either on two wheels (I recommend an e-bike unless you are a strong cyclist, given that it averages 9.4% for almost eight kilometres) or driving up, because it is, in my opinion, the most beautiful corner of this part of the Alps.

With Mum on her e-bike and me on my road bike we set out early, the sun yet to rise above the tops of the surrounding mountains and only the sound of distant cow bells hanging in the morning air. While there’s beauty to be seen all the way up, it’s not until the final three kilometres, when the landscape opens out into a vast verdant valley with walls of green-tinged peaks rising up on each side. At the finish of the climb there’s a few small auberges that mark the start of various hiking and mountain biking trails, as well as a traditional farm making cheese - this alone is worth the journey up.

Our time at the campsite happened to coincide with the annual Fête de l'Alpage, a traditional festival focusing on life on the mountain pastures, as well as a huge communal feast. Given that many people still live and farm in the traditional way, selling their produce and wares at the weekly markets, this was a fascinating insight into a way of living very different to our own. We even got to try our hands and various lumberjacks skills, including a two-man saw to cut through tree trunks. 

Fully stocked with Reblochon cheese and freshly made fruit preserves from the fête we began our journey further south, one that would see us head over some of the most iconic passes not just in the Alps, but all of Europe. Col des Aravis was followed by Cormet de Roseland and the spectacular lake that sits under its towering peak. The pièce de résistance would come a few days later as we made up the Col du Télégraphe and over the ninth highest paved road in Europe, the mighty Col du Galibier. Little did Mum know that this wouldn’t be the only time we would reach the summit at 2642m. 

Two days later the two of us would head back up on our bikes, a ride that would never have been possible had Mum not discovered the joys of owning an e-bike. For all of the cycling experiences we’ve been able to share, riding up one of the most mythical roads in cycling folklore as day broke, will take some beating. As will the joy gained from seeing the sheer elation on her face at not only having conquered the mountain, but being surrounded by some of the most spectacular scenery in all of Europe. 

There is a purity to be found high up in the Alps, an energy that permeates from these great towering pillars of rock. By being in such vast landscapes we are reminded of just how small we really are and of the majesty of mother nature, yet at the same time moments like these leave you feeling so alive, longing for them to last well beyond the moment itself. Maybe this is why we keep coming back here, to feel alive and energised. Whatever the reason, one thing is for certain, it won’t be the last time my Mum ventures this way now that she knows the beauty that abounds here.